Chocolate Review: Koko Black Madagascar 64%

October 19, 2014 | Chocolate Experiences

Koko Black Madagascar 64% block on packagingI was given this beautiful sample of the Food of the Gods from a friend today. It was greatly appreciated, especially considering my stocks of fine chocolate have reached an all-time low having not visited Heaven (my special name for Melbourne) for many months.

Koko Black originated in Melbourne in 2003, but has spread to Adelaide, Brisbane, Canberra, Perth, and even New Zealand, but unfortunately not yet reached Sydney. I have visited their flagship store in the Royal Arcade in Melbourne many times, savouring their chocolate selection and coffee, in their rich leather chairs and plush velvet and timber surrounds. Their chocolatiers produce some amazing chocolate, ranging from a variety of single origin blocks, to truffles and other chocolate confections, to their simply packaged but exquisite Sandpiper range including dark chocolate coated vanilla pistachio nougat, milk or dark coated hazelnuts, and milk chocolate caramelised coconut buttons. The couverture they use include my favourites of Valrhona, Felchlin, and Callebaut.

This particular sample is a 40g dark block, rated at 64%. It is a single origin Madagascan, meaning the cacao in this block comes from only Madagascar, and is not blended from many countries. The variety is clearly indicated on the front and back of the packet – trinitario. Speaking of packaging, it is a simple brown heavy paper/light cardboard, with the enclosed block wrapped in a bronze coloured foil. Classy without being too fancy.

With only cocoa mass, cocoa butter, sugar and vanilla, the ingredients and simple and pure.

The snap is crisp, and the texture is supremely smooth, without that fatty after taste. The taste is quite fruity, and not as floral as some Madagascan samples, but the fruitiness never gets too acidic and is nicely tempered by the vanilla. It is not too challenging for those only starting to appreciate dark chocolate. The aftertaste is almost as good as the main taste, turning slightly earthy towards the end.

An amazing chocolate, highly recommended.

Koko Black Madagascar 64%

4.2 Overall
Pros Single origin. Super smooth, fruity, with awesome aftertaste as well.
Cons It's only 40g! I need more!
  • Texture 5
  • Flavour 5
  • Complexity 4
  • Strength 3
  • Presentation 4

Copyright Ian Breakspear, 2014